Bay to Breakers, a California kaleidoscope
For Sunday, May 25, 2008
Went to the San Francisco Bay to Breakers Race again this year. This is my sixth tour of duty. I’ve never run, except to get a photo of a costumed reveler before he or she disappeared.
This year was a survivalist year. Our group has always numbered six to eight people. Schedule conflicts, age, exhaustion, and injuries left the responsibility of chronicling the 2008 event to Gino and me alone.
As we strolled amidst the crowd of 60,000 people, 33,000 of them ING registered to actually race, we could not for the life of us understand how our friends could possibly skip this most momentous celebration of life, liberty, and licentiousness. How often does one get to share the streets in a seven-mile stroll with happy, laughing, friendly gorillas, gladiators, salmon, men in hula skirts, Little Bo Peeps of every gender, a 100 Elvis impersonators, Smurfs, genies, Tele-Tubbies, tubbys, robots, zombies, men in dresses, women in undresses, and every other costume devisable by the human mind?
Bay to Breakers is a combination foot race, Mardi Gras, Rio Carnival, Burning Man, Kinetic Contraption conglomeration. For Gino and me it’s a party we wait impatiently for all year long. We were not fazed by our peers’ cancellations. For us it just meant it was harder to get lost from each other. I brought extra camera batteries and for the first time a movie camera so I could capture the spectacles for our missing spectators.
We began the Sunday race, as usual, early Saturday morning. I rode over on the ferry and Gino took a cab from his girlfriend’s house on Laguna to meet me. Saturday is our day to stroll aimlessly about the city, sort of get in shape, mostly explore, and ultimately settle on a place to banquet.
Last year we rode Bart to 16th and Mission and explored the shops and sites on the south side. This year we zigzagged up to Union Square. There was a restaurant I very much wanted us to eat at on Taylor called Fish and Farm.
Three months ago I expanded my Comcast to include HD and On Demand. I immediately fell in love with the On Demand option called Bay On Demand. It does 3-4 minute infomercials of Bay Area restaurants and night clubs and changes them every couple of weeks. Ever on the prowl for a new experience, I pour through the Bay On Demand options frequently, notepad and pencil in hand.
I found Fish and Farm two months ago and pinned the address to my den wall. It is totally organic, right down to the décor. Doors come from old farm houses and such. They serve beef, pork, fish, and fowl with their vegetables. Even the bar serves organic tequilas, beers, wines, and liquors.
Our 2008 annual banquet was all I’d hoped for. We had one of the greatest meals of our adult lives. We racked up a $125 tab, but we sampled most everything on the menu – octopus, prime rib, sardines, duck liver, short ribs, chilled potato-leek soup, steamed fava leaves, salt-brine fries, and onward. We departed two hours later, stuffed, and climbed the knob to the top of the city. Our crawl ended in North Beach shooting pool at Gino and Carlo’s.
Early Sunday morning we suffered briefly finding a cab to the start line. Union Street was lined with costumed revelers all looking for rides to the same place.
The race itself doesn’t fit well into words. It’s a multi-sensory experience the defies capture in mere prose. At the Chieftan Irish Pub, three blocks from the start line, it was standing room only as runners in jogging gear, wearing numbers and foot timers, stopped for Bloody Marys. This would definitely bite into their finish-line times.
At Hayes Hill, the uphill section, the tempo definitely rises with the patrons. Residents mount industrial-size speakers on their porches and pump Sweet Home Alabama and other irresistible dance music over the crowd. Like marching bands pausing to perform before judges’ booths, the procession pauses for a spontaneous street dance before proceeding a few hundred feet and doing it again. This goes on all the way to Golden Gate Park. Fell Street was all Cab Calloway and the Beatles.
The floats are like no others. Some brought bouncing rooms on wheels with battery blowers and invited pretty girls to step inside and set themselves free, which they did. We saw tiki huts, pagodas, cardboard Bart trains, and portable dance floors. One group pushed an over-sized beer pong table seven miles, never once playing pong.
Gino and I are low key. We wear Hawaiian shirts and colorful hats. We have no desire to push anything heavy, amaze others with our brazenness, or break any land speed records. We go just to watch, take pictures, and walk amongst the human kaleidoscope of free spirits.